Now, almost 2 weeks exactly since arriving in Colombia, our small site group has split time between Bogotá, the capitol city, and Barranquilla, the coastal city that I will call home for the next year. In each city we've spent time exploring the different Presbyteries of Colombia and meeting many of their members, while also enjoying our first sights, sounds, and smells of the country. Thus far, I have felt sincerely welcomed by everyone we have encountered, the cultural norm here being a besito on the cheek followed by a hug. Beyond that act of welcome, though, it's clear in the conversations that follow that people are genuinely excited that we're here to experience the vibrancy and complexity of this country. Still, I've taken away distinct learning from our time in each city so I've chosen to split up my reflections accordingly.
.BOGOTÁ
Elevation: 8,660 ft
Population: 7.18 million
Knowing little what to expect, John & I landed in Bogotá and entered quickly into a week of continued orientation and community-building. While in the capitol, we had the task of filing for our Visas (a process that proved to be unnecessarily tricky), visiting a number of local museums that would help illuminate some of the recent history in Colombia, and taxi-ing around town to meet folks involved with the work of the local Presbyterian church. Amidst all this activity, we also dug into our suitcases for the few layers we had to stay warm in the breezy chill of Bogotá that's caused by the high elevation.
All together, it was an enriching week of learning and exposure to new ideas that will continue to guide our reflections throughout the year and challenge our perspectives. I found myself really moved by our visits to El Museo Nacional and later to a smaller photography exhibit that explores the recent armed conflict in Colombia. Weaving together a discussion of political power, displacement, violence, and the struggle for land rights, both museum spaces sought to challenge our understanding of the effects of the armed conflict on the country's most marginalized peoples.
To be clear, I am no expert on this conflict, and I have only begun to piece together my understanding of recent events, the acting groups involved, and the consequences on the country's most vulnerable citizens, but it's important to me to invite others along in this learning and to hopefully encourage new awareness for the conflict in Colombia and the consequent Peace Accords that have yet to be fulfilled. The narrative that the history of Colombia or the country itself are "dangerous, "unstable," or "corrupt" are unfair generalizations and immobilize any more complex understanding of the forces at play. Again, I am no expect, but I am learning what narratives deserve to be lifted up and what narratives deserve to be interrogated further. It's true that these are hard and heavy conversations to have; it would be unquestionably easier and more comfortable to read one article about the armed conflict from afar and then move on. But I know I have an invitation to go deeper. Rather than retreat from these topics, I have an invitation to continue learning about this history and the current reality, to listen with intention as people share their stories, to keep seeking out educational materials on the subject. To be clear, my day-to-day life here may not involve consistent or frequent contact with intentional dialogue about the armed conflict and my volunteer placement sites will not explicitly engage with this layer of life. But, as I continue to knit together my understanding of faith and justice, this topic demands my attention.
BARRANQUILLA
Population: 1.2 million
Onward from Bogotá, we boarded a plane for a quick flight to Barranquilla in the Atlántico district of Colombia. Knowing that this would be my new home for the immediate future, I was excited to see the layout of the city, try some staple foods, and begin meeting the members of la Primera Iglesia Presbiteriana de Barranquilla. Now, if you know me, you know that I love to cook and try new foods. There has been no shortage of new foods to try during our first weeks here, some of my favorites being patacones (fried plátanos) and salchipapa (a mash-up of the words salchica, or sausage, and papa, potato). Salchipapa is a popular street food in Barranquilla and it was a welcome discovery for me on our first night in Barranquilla as we listened to motos whizzing down the street nearby and I learned some of the staple words in el acento costeño.
Later in the week we had the chance to go to the beach. Only an hour or so from the city, it was a huge treat to enjoy the calm, salty water on a hot, sunny day. As we arrived, I was surprised to find that there were small open-air bungalows for rent where we could take some much-needed shade and rest in a hammock. On our way to and from the beach the car was filled with merengue, salsa, and vallenato -- different styles of Latin music I have yet to master distinguishing.
Tomorrow we leave for the third and final time to visit various communities in Urabá, an area of the the Antioquia province of Colombia . Without knowing many certainties, I know we'll have the opportunity to visit with members of the agricultural community and learn about the third Presbytery of the Iglesia Presbiteriana de Colombia. It's exciting and humbling to be welcomed into new communities so readily -- it speaks again to the welcome we've received throughout the country. I'm reminded that these communities have hosted YAVs for years and it speaks to the lasting impression previous YAVs have left that we would again be so welcomed.
Through this all, I continue to find rest in the assurance that this experience can be both/and. Rather than forming one-layered reflections of my time or viewing my context through dualities, this experience can only be described in its complexity. Often I'm both happy and homesick. I'm eager to learn and yet these conversations are so emotionally heavy. In the cities we've visited, there is both harmony and tension, prosperity and struggle, faith and frustration. In seeking to share this experience with honesty and courage, I hope to keep bringing these dualities into the light.
As we prepare for our final trip tomorrow I would welcome prayer for safe travels and continued openness to new learning. God is good.
Prayers indeed for safe travels, Hannah! I am already thoroughly enjoying reading your notes and look forward to continued vicarious experiences. Thank you for taking the time--and for describing both thoughts and places so beautifully!